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 Assuming a part that Murray's sets aside for you is correct is like fishing without beer, it just shouldn't be done. I won't pretend to know which engine the pump on the right is for, but it certainly won't work with mine.
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To compliment the suspension upgrades, I got Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3s.
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The rear shocks are easily accessed by folding down the rear seat and pulling up the carpet, then removing the foam insulation.
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The stock torque arm looks substantially less rigid and lighter than the Spohn piece on the right. Install was simple, once we hacked up the stock camshell a bit.
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The control arm on the left is the result of 30 to 45 minutes of wire brushing on a grinder and a handheld drill.
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To get the old bushings out of the control arm (if you don't have an air chisel) we found it fastest to drill out the old rubber and then pull out the inner shell. With that out, using a screwdriver and hammer to chisel the outer shell worked best.
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The Spohn upper strut mount is significantly taller to allow for more strut movement on lowered cars. The "boot" around the strut wouldn't fit in the new piece, so as a later picture shows, the Koni is unprotected.
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Although I don't think it will stick for long, we painted the cross member with POR-15. I don't think it will last because we didn't prep the k member at all. Time will tell.
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A picture of the unprotected Koni strut. Hope the little guy's okay.
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This is by no means a step-by-step install article. I simply took pictures of interesting or troublesome parts of the install. Hopefully some insight will be gained from my experience.